What kind of motor oil do you use?

[Dave Slayer]

What kind of motor oil do you use? I think I have Valvoline or Quaker State. I prefer Castrol GTX though. Which do you prefer? Are any really better than the others?

 

[John]

I can't remember what exactly i just bought, all i remember was that it came in a green container from NAPA.

 

[Lewis]

You want to know about motor oil, then go here
http://www.carbibles.com/engineoil_bible.html

 

[jasoncran]

What kind of motor oil do you use? I think I have Valvoline or Quaker State. I prefer Castrol GTX though. Which do you prefer? Are any really better than the others?

quaker sludge, heck no, not in trucks, i have used valvoline in my ranger, i use mobil one in my nissan, Castrol Gtx i have used in my ranger, but the synthentic(castrol syntec) isn't good imo for my Nissan, i wish i could afford a oil sampling test done to see which one of the synthentics worke the best for what i do with my truck

jason

 

[Lewis]

Mix some Lucas in there dude.

 

[jasoncran]

Mix some Lucas in there dude.

i have no problen with sludge in the engine a lab can tell u when to change the oil only ,oil and filter, let both stay in the truck, just because the oil black doesnt mean it's losts it lubricated qualities.

jason

 

[PrimeRoot]

Oil Factors

What kind of motor oil do you use? ...Are any really better than the others?

Of kinds and suitabilities of oil there are many:

Apart from considering the recommended API rating when choosing an oil, there are most certainly other factors to consider for your specific situation.

API now rates for oxidation resistance, deposit protection, wear protection, and low-temperature performance over the life of the oil. Manufacturers might specify what type to use for average conditions, during the warrantable life of your engine, but life isnt always average and maybe you want to use your engine longer than the warranty.

In conditions of temperature extreme and low dust, I think about synthetics for heat resistence and cold pumping.

• What isnt always obvoius is that at -27 degrees F
  organic oil might not pour,
  but a synthetic might pour suitably to -40.
  
  Synthetics tend to leak more in older engines,
  (due to the uniform molecule size, so they say),
  effecting the benefit of using a long drain interval.

In an old, or a high performance engine I might use a thicker oil to hang better in the huge clearances.

• Theoreticallly a 5W30 is the same thickness as 5w50 at 0 degrees F, and
  a 15W40 is the same thickness as a 10W40 at 210 degrees F.
  
  Too thick might hang too much on the cylinders and increase oil consumption, or it might
  actually errode your bearings instead of sneaking thru in a tighter engine, and if nothing else
  it might just increase the frictional drag needlessly. Filteration is also effected, and the oil may by-pass the filter entirely until warmed up. You may even have no oil pressure at all in the extreme reaches of the engine for longer periods at start up.
  
  Too thin and the parts may contact each other, or you may have poor oil pressure due to internal leakage.

Whether I service a diesel, gasoline, or propane engine, bears greatly on what oil I use.

Maybe your vehicle is a $200 leaker and always has clean oil? Use the "Wal-mart special" if is unlikely any of the additives will be depleted before it drips onto the hi-way.

Maybe you want to run a half million miles on your engine before a rebuild, but still run 6000 miles between oil changes? Dont use the Wal-mart special very long, and don't rely on a regular full-flow filter.

I guess the bottom line is, which characteristics are most relevant to your operation?

• The trucks I work on run in VERY dusty conditions, so this really changes the equation of how long I should run the oil, and Im not about to throw 15 gallons of synthetic at it every month.
  
  Some people use expensive oil combined with by-pass filtration. This can help defray costs by allowing a longer drain interval. But maybe your engine only holds four quarts: is a $200 filter base really worth it?

Also, I dont recommend staying with one brand of oil, continuously.

• What one brand may not clean out, another might, even if you only use it one time in ten.
  Sludge is a factor when it turns to varnish and binds lifters and valves etc, or reducess lubrication or cooling. A good oil will keep solids in suspension so the filter can remove it.

Teflon oils may be a bit risky on new engines, before break-in is finished, or on older tired engines who's piston rings are held in place with carbon.



..whether we live therefore, or die, we are the Lord's
Romans 14:8

 

[Lewis]

Mix some Lucas in there dude.

i have no problen with sludge in the engine a lab can tell u when to change the oil only ,oil and filter, let both stay in the truck, just because the oil black doesnt mean it's losts it lubricated qualities.

jason

When the oil is dirty, it means that it is doing it's job. Let it stay in there to long it loses it's viscosity, and premature engine wear and damage will follow. A little trick is to take a magnet and put it on the oil filter and the transmission pan. And this keeps those small metal particles from recirculating with the oil. Old hard drive magnets work very well. They are even making some transmission pans like that from the factory, but it has not caught on with the general public yet. And not a lot of companies are making them.
Now you can also buy them in auto stores. Or get a magnet of your own and one of those adjustable steel bands, and put it on. Also jason if you got to much sludge in the oil pan your engine will run hotter than normal, and that goes for oil all over the outside of the engine too, because it acts as a insulator.

 

[jasoncran]

would that include if the drain plug is magnetic as well, i need to change my oil asap, i'm a little past due

jason

 

[Lewis]

You want all the metal out, the filter you throw away, with the metal filings in it, now if the drain plug is magnetized it will get some but not enough, and if you have sludge in the pan the filings will get caught in the sludge. Just make sure your engine is warm when you drain it, you will get more out of it and more contaminates. If you suspect your internal engine is really dirty and sludgy, drain a quart of oil out, and add a quart of transmission fluid to the oil, run for a half hour then drain. Why ? Because transmission fluid is a high detergent that will not harm the engine at all, and it really, really cleans it. As apposed to many other flush cleaners that are hard on your seals. And if your seals are old, these engine flush cleaners, will make sure you know it by leaking. Using to much fuel injecter cleaner is also hard on your seals.

 

[jasoncran]

You want all the metal out, the filter you throw away, with the metal filings in it, now if the drain plug is magnetized it will get some but not enough, and if you have sludge in the pan the filings will get caught in the sludge. Just make sure your engine is warm when you drain it, you will get more out of it and more contaminates. If you suspect your internal engine is really dirty and sludgy, drain a quart of oil out, and add a quart of transmission fluid to the oil, run for a half hour then drain. Why ? Because transmission fluid is a high detergent that will not harm the engine at all, and it really, really cleans it.

i know about the flushing the engine with tranny fluid,i usually
change it hot

jason

 

[Lewis]

I added a little more to that post up there.

 

[jasoncran]

You want all the metal out, the filter you throw away, with the metal filings in it, now if the drain plug is magnetized it will get some but not enough, and if you have sludge in the pan the filings will get caught in the sludge. Just make sure your engine is warm when you drain it, you will get more out of it and more contaminates. If you suspect your internal engine is really dirty and sludgy, drain a quart of oil out, and add a quart of transmission fluid to the oil, run for a half hour then drain. Why ? Because transmission fluid is a high detergent that will not harm the engine at all, and it really, really cleans it. As apposed to many other flush cleaners that are hard on your seals. And if your seals are old, these engine flush cleaners, will make sure you know it by leaking. Using to much fuel injecter cleaner is also hard on your seals.

are you talking about the one you put in the tank or the crankcase?

jason

 

[keekl]

Quaker State Hi-Mileage 10W-30...I've got 243,000 miles on my Accord, guess it's working ok