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Jason, have you tried this freeware for low light applications and very high contrast images?

It's a simplified tone-mapping app that is very easy to use, and will often bring out details in photos like yours. Give it a try. It's not really HDR, but it will increase the dynamic range of your images. Use the "default" setting and take a look. There are lots of things to explore, including a way to get true HDR results, requiring multiple images taken at different exposures. It does a pretty good job.
 
my brother gave me an idea ,use a portrait lends as they open up more to .05 f stop and time it
 
You should be able to get an f 1.4 Nikkor on Ebay for a reasonable price. A 0.9 lens might be located, but you wouldn't like the lack of sharpness.

Like most Nikons, yours has superior high ISO performance, so you'd probably be better off cranking up the ISO to 12800 or so and you'd still get good results. Faster lens will give you two, maybe three stops more light than what you have now, but a higher ISO can give you usable results with five stops improvement over ISO 400. At least your camera will.

I have super fast lenses for my camera, but I really never have to use them.
 
Maybe a cheap tripod and longer exposures? Even cheap tripods are a lot better than they used to be. Just use the self-timer to make a long exposure, and it works fine for most things.
 
Ah. Then just take longer exposures. Reciprocity failure isn't a thing with digital cameras, so it's pretty straightforward. Moving objects are an issue, but your real talent seems to be architectural subjects, which don't move much.
 
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