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How Hot Water Heaters Work

Jason remember I was a 51 November in the Army, that is plumbing and water treatment. I did really well except for making a steady pour of hot lead in a horizontal hub packed with Oakum, vertical no problem.
 
Jason remember I was a 51 November in the Army, that is plumbing and water treatment. I did really well except for making a steady pour of hot lead in a horizontal hub packed with Oakum, vertical no problem.
I forgot you were that. I have to dig up picks of this stuff. a lot of its easily found. remnants at ft.knox, jax nas, blanding and other places.
 
Jason remember I was a 51 November in the Army, that is plumbing and water treatment. I did really well except for making a steady pour of hot lead in a horizontal hub packed with Oakum, vertical no problem.

Ya' must be a little older than me. I've poured a grand total of two lead joints in my time. Both easy ones on showers. No leaks, lol. I'm used to working with lead because I've casted my own bullets for years.
 
Ya' must be a little older than me. I've poured a grand total of two lead joints in my time. Both easy ones on showers. No leaks, lol. I'm used to working with lead because I've casted my own bullets for years.
I would say. he remember the old ww2 stuff better then I did. the army doesn't have plumbers like he was. we pay kbr(Halliburton) over seas to do that or the civilians at the post dept of enginerring(public works)
 
Well when I was in guy's the Army was just starting to use outside plumbing contracters like for on post housing and I would work with them on Ft Benning. We were just starting to be allowed to use PVC in certain applications topside under ground was still a no no when I left the Army in September 1980
 
For a tank type WH, Rheem all the way.
This is something I've considered contacting you on. Do they also have gas tank-less units? Any idea the cost of such a conversion, and is there a minimum power requirement for installation?? Thanks.
 
why didn't you apply for a water and sewer position. surely you had the knowledge. that really hasn't changed a lot. I will see those water plants in old images , shoot my city uses an old navy cistern. I have posted its pic on the route pic thread.
 
why didn't you apply for a water and sewer position. surely you had the knowledge. that really hasn't changed a lot. I will see those water plants in old images , shoot my city uses an old navy cistern. I have posted its pic on the route pic thread.
My drug and alcohol use stopped that.
 
The best thing a homeowner can do to extend the life of a water heater is to replace the magnesium anode rod that's in them every 3-5 years...

Is it recommended to replace the 2 sacrificial anode rods on a 20 year old heater, or would the threads and such likely be too old to remove?
 
Ya' must be a little older than me. I've poured a grand total of two lead joints in my time. Both easy ones on showers. No leaks, lol. I'm used to working with lead because I've casted my own bullets for years.


Now it's Ty-seal gaskets,lead wool, or no hub couplings.

I'm loading Match Grade .308 right now.

I found a small lot of new Lake City Match brass. 1993.

These have the knurling around the base.

Finding that stuff new is like finding gold.


Blessings to you.


JLB
 
Is it recommended to replace the 2 sacrificial anode rods on a 20 year old heater, or would the threads and such likely be too old to remove?

That's a good question brother. Actually, on a 20 yr old heater, best not breath on it too hard, lol. Best to do the anodes regularly from when it was a new unit, every 3 or 4 years. When you go to replace the anode(s) you'll need a 1-1/16" 6 point socket and a breaker bar. Have fun! :)
 
This is something I've considered contacting you on. Do they also have gas tank-less units? Any idea the cost of such a conversion, and is there a minimum power requirement for installation?? Thanks.

they do have gas tankless units. They're the best. The power required is 120v/15amp dedicated circuit. The conversions can cost about 1500-2000 complete with installation & permit. It's really not that hard of an installation if you're handy. Repipe the water & gas and install the venting & electrical. About a half day give or take.
 
That's a good question brother. Actually, on a 20 yr old heater, best not breath on it too hard, lol. Best to do the anodes regularly from when it was a new unit, every 3 or 4 years. When you go to replace the anode(s) you'll need a 1-1/16" 6 point socket and a breaker bar. Have fun! :)

Okay Edward. Thanks again.
 
anode rods come two different ways. Either with a 1-1/16" plug on top, or one with a water fitting made into it so that it installs in one of the water connections on top of the WH. If one is planning to change the WH anyway, may as well pick up the 2nd anode rod for 20-25 dollars and install it then instead of paying an extra 150 for a 10 year wh.
 
Why not 3 anodes? Buy one with 2, and put another in manually. Why not 4?

Would you spare yourself the bother of changing them over if you put in several at once?
 
Why not 3 anodes? Buy one with 2, and put another in manually. Why not 4?

Would you spare yourself the bother of changing them over if you put in several at once?

You can only put in 2 at once. The anodes which install at the hot water outlet will still let the unit function but if you try to install one one the cold side, you lose your dip tube and then no workey no more, lol.
 
Okay, the Rheem 2 anode units put one of the anodes in the outlet. Thus 2 is the max.

I just read the Rheem manual on-line. They recommend inspecting the anodes annually. Anode wear time depends on how much use the unit gets, softness, temperature, and the quality of the ceramic lining (varies randomly).

You are slowly teaching me better handyman skills Edward. Thank you.
 
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