Working Diorama

[JohnDB]

Got a sheet of 5 mm (0.2 inch) clear Perspex for the front panel. I cut off the bottom portion of the original panel for a kick-plate to protect the Perspex.

Then bought a Passive Infrared (PIR) Sensor for the console. The PIR is to detect any movement near the console while the console is not being used. Any detected movement will light up the inside of the console. The idea is to invite interaction with the display. As soon as the console is used (switched on) the PIR is disabled and the light goes off.

However, I wanted the PIR to be inside the console as part of the wiring diorama.
A bracket had to be made so the PIR sits above the kick-plate.

This one thing will be the curator's favorite part...it will drive you nuts how one little thing that took so little skill by comparison to the rest of what you have done will be the highlight.

It's like making the lights burn at work even though they won't be hooked up right or even work like they are supposed to...but everyone is happy because they are burning. Uggghhh

 

[Hermit]

This one thing will be the curator's favorite part...it will drive you nuts how one little thing that took so little skill by comparison to the rest of what you have done will be the highlight.

It's like making the lights burn at work even though they won't be hooked up right or even work like they are supposed to...but everyone is happy because they are burning. Uggghhh

Most probably right.

 

[Hermit]

Bought some felt and fabric dye to make a gray seal between the console and the Perspex front panel.

A problem arose out of my ignorance about how the PIR sensor works. That is, they sense Infrared (heat or thermal radiation) which the PIR does not work behind a glass window or clear sheet of Perspex. So I drilled a series of holes across the front of the PIR sensor to allow some of the thermal radiation to access the sensor. This worked out fine.

Next, I laid in four lengths of LED strip lighting around the inside edge of the console opening. Then have the PIR sensor operate it.

This is what the console looks like when the PIR gets triggered. (two side views)
If the PIR no longer senses movement, it switches off the light after 10 seconds.

It turned out better than I thought it would.
The 'cool blue' LED light against the darkish 'Boathouse Blue' interior, lights up well.

 

[Hermit]

Now that the console is finished, it is time to get back to the display table. While considering how to best tackle the landscaping, I was shelling peas so to speak. I bought a few cork sanding blocks to break up to smaller parts to simulate rocks. This task took a lot of work and time. The cork itself is quite compact and breaking bits off actually made my hands sore and a bit raw.

Learnt this idea from a model railways scenes website.
Through the sieve, smaller bits got harvested. Looks like dirt and gravel.

 

[JohnDB]

The three way occupancy sensors are a pain. Everything seems to trigger them.
Infra red, ultrasonic, (drawing a blank at the moment)

Heat or air conditioning vents or a radio. All leave the lights on or turn them on. Capacitance....that's it. The third one works off proximity based off capacitance. It's way too sensitive and we usually turn them off or the lights will never go out.

 

[Hermit]

The three way occupancy sensors are a pain. Everything seems to trigger them.
Infra red, ultrasonic, (drawing a blank at the moment)

Heat or air conditioning vents or a radio. All leave the lights on or turn them on. Capacitance....that's it. The third one works off proximity based off capacitance. It's way too sensitive and we usually turn them off or the lights will never go out.

Thanks for info. At the moment I feel that it may not be sensitive enough the way it is behind the Perspex. Sure it works at home, but not all the time, and I already have the sensitivity up high. I can always drill some more holes.

If it gets too sensitive, I can always dial it down. The thing is, I want it sensitive to attract visitors. So in this regard, it is desirable. Besides, once they start playing with the bridge, i.e., turn it 'on', the same switch, will turn the PIR off.

Remember Theremins? I built a simple one when I was a teenager. It sounded a bit like Star Trek music. It was quite a lot of fun.

 

[JohnDB]

You can try drilling the extra holes at 45°-30° angles so that more IR energy from above (very short wavelength) can get through the plexiglass.
And IIWY, I would use a circular pattern for the holes so that it resembles a speaker.

 

[Hermit]

You can try drilling the extra holes at 45°-30° angles so that more IR energy from above (very short wavelength) can get through the plexiglass.
And IIWY, I would use a circular pattern for the holes so that it resembles a speaker.

Good ideas, John. I'll keep them in mind if I need to make more holes. Thank you.

 

[Hermit]

Got a package of about 50 plastic figurines at 1:72 scale (about 1 inch tall). They come in about 10 variations. None of them had a gesture of 'hello' by a waving arm. So I amputated the arm of one man and repositioned it as such:

Used a bit of yellow-tack to position him so you got an idea of where I have planned to place him. He will be dressed in hi-visiblity work clothes.

I glued these figures on a copper wire so I can paint them easier.

 

[Hermit]

Experimented with making some trees from leftover copper wire. The wires got twisted together from various wire thicknesses. Then soldered together. Later, after washing all the flux resin off with methylated spirits, I painted the tree with a brown colour. Afterwards I will glue green foliage on the branches.

Though it was fun making them, much like bonsai work, it took many hours to just make these three trees. I've ordered some plastic trees and green plastic foliage. I feel the homemade trees will look better (not so perfect, like the real thing).

These are just stuck in the foam block for air-drying the paint.

My next trees will have more thickness around the trunk area.
What do you think about them so far?

 

[Hermit]

I rode done to Wardell Bridge to take further snapshots and measurements of the area around the northern part of the bridge. The recon was to get some idea for creating a resemblance of the surrounding landscape. I soon discovered that the Shire Council had completed installing their redevelopment plan along Bridge road. They put in a new pathway and decking. It looks pretty good, but it means more work for me. I don't have to include the redevelopment plan but it would look better if I did. So I took measurements and photos of this too.

Here is what a part of the area looked like in 2010 (Google Map images).

This is what it looks like today.

Here are my recon notes of the new footpath and decking.

 

[Hermit]

Started working on the landscaping by working from the bridge and outwards. Decided to add the steps and walkway which goes down and across one side of the Bridge Street tunnel.

Had to get the right height of the pathway first.

Used scrap Masonite to cut out a set of steps and glued together.
Bottom right, is what it will look like once I am ready to glue it in place.

 

[Hermit]

Added railings to gangway under the tunnel and to the stairs. painted them the same colour as the bridge to keep it in uniform.

 

[Hermit]

Here is the view from the other side of Bridge St tunnel.

Constructing the footpath up the slope of the hill.

You will notice a sign on the door, I sometimes use it (placed on other side of door) when I know I am doing something that cannot be interrupted, such as mixing and pouring resin. The sign says: DO NOT DISTURB Already Disturbed. Once I heard a friend chuckling after reading the sign. He most probably agreed