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Auto Tune Up Cost

Lewis

Member
[FONT=arial,helvetica][FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Reader Question[/FONT][FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]: [/FONT][FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]I wanted to get a tune-up on my car and I called around to get some prices. The dealer quoted me 4 hours of labor to do the job. Another mechanic told me they charge a flat rate fee unlike the dealers. What is the difference? The mechanic that I chose only charged me for two hours, not four."
Thank you,
Tom P.

[/FONT][/FONT][FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Tom, you can easily see that when you call around for an estimate you can get some pretty dramatic price differences. Most larger shops and all dealers that I am aware of will charge an hourly price for each job that is listed in a shop hourly manual. For example your car tune up might have an estimated repair or replacement time of four hours in the shop manual. This time is calculated using the shop hourly rate {i.e., 4 x $60}. Pretty straight forward right? Not all the time.

So what do you get for the four hours of labor? If you call my shop and ask for a car tune up price we automatically figure in the price a fuel filter, spark plugs, air filter, PCV filter, and distributor ignition rotor plus all applicable labor charges. So my car tune up price would probably be much higher than a shop that only replaces spark plugs as their auto tune up package. You need to make sure you are comparing apples to apples when you are calling around for prices.

Some shops that I know in my area purposely give low ball telephone estimates just to get you in the door. Example: You call to get a price for a new radiator installed. Does the estimate include new antifreeze, a new radiator cap and taxes? I would automatically figure these items in to my estimate, not only because I want to do a nice turn key job, but also I don't want to have to sell you parts later on that I already know you will need. For this reason, my phone estimates can be higher than some of my competitors, but your final bill might be lower.

There are also different brands of shop manuals on the market, so the GM dealer would be using a different labor estimating guide than my shop and most independent shops would be using. Not only would these guides possibly give different replacement times, but they could also classify an auto tune up differently like in my example above.

So the shop that Tom found only charged him for the time they actually spent working on the car? So is that a better deal? Maybe not, if all they did was replace spark plugs and call it a car tune-up. Just for grins Tom, call the dealer back and ask them how much they charge just for spark plugs. What if this shop has a slower mechanic, or deliberately takes longer to do the work just to rack up more time on the clock?

On a different note, as a shop owner I would want to know why you are requesting a car tune up in the first place. What I have found is that if the car runs poorly or differently than normal, the customer often automatically asks for a car tune up. Cars of today are very sophisticated and full of computers and sensors that can cause your car to act strangely. So a tune up might not fix the problem, and a proper diagnosis from the mechanic could be beneficial.
http://www.trustmymechanic.com/htmlmessage4.html
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Yeah Jason, I have to do my back disk brakes and the rear sway bar has come down because both bolts are broke on both sides from rust and I tried to turn the bolt head out of the sway bar and it broke off it was very rusty. So I am going to take the whole bar down and punch it out. Because that sway bar is not threaded. I already bought the replacement bolts and bushings. Oh yeah I have to borrow my dad's compressor and impact gun to tighten that harmonic balancer bolt because I am getting vibration. I used a big half inch breaker bar to get it off by putting it to the ground and bumping the ignition. Another way of getting that bolt tight is to put a big rope in #1 cylinder, so that it can only go up so far and will not be able to come back down, and then put some muscle on that crank pulley bolt.
 
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At one time, a "tune up" was: adjust carb mixture settings and timing, replace PVC Filter, plugs, distributor cap and rotor, air filter, fuel filter (on some cars) and maybe lube the choke assembly and/or clean the battery terminals. Tune ups were done as often as every 20,000 miles in the 60's. They were not very expensive to do and you often noticed a performance increase after doing it.


Today, it's really different. The Ford van I drive for the company requires only new spark plugs and PVC filter to be considered "tuned up". Cost is about $200 and you do it every 100,000 miles! When we had it tuned up 30,000 miles ago, I can't say I saw any change in performance. THEN, at 120,000 miles, my mileage dropped to 9 mpg. It cost $475 to fix THAT - they found two sensors not acting right. Mileage went to 16 mpg. Way better than a "tune up".

My car below requires plugs, coil sets, and an assortment of checks and adjustments, a new PVC filter and new fuel filter if it hasn't been done in the recent past. Prices range from $650 to $1,000 - you do it every 100,000 miles. By then, it should be payed off so I guess I'll save up five months of payments to pay for the tune up!
 
The Ford van I drive for the company :toofunny you deliver pizza? You are on the road where people can see you in a VAN? :shame2 :toofunny YOU?
 
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Yeah Jason, I have to do my back disk brakes and the rear sway bar has come down because both bolts are broke on both sides from rust and I tried to turn the bolt head out of the sway bar and it broke off it was very rusty. So I am going to take the whole bar down and punch it out. Because that sway bar is not threaded. I already bought the replacement bolts and bushings. Oh yeah I have to borrow my dad's compressor and impact gun to tighten that harmonic balancer bolt because I am getting vibration. I used a big half inch breaker bar to get it off by putting it to the ground and bumping the ignition. And another way of getting that bolt back tight is to put a big rope in #1 cylinder, so that it can only go up so far and will not be able to come back down, and then put some muscle on that crank pulley bolt. Because as you and I know unless that piston can come all the way to the top, it can't go back down.
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lewis double post. and i never and i mean never let any car go past 50k miles on a tune up. well let say that if you do and the plugs break then you have to take the head off if you cant extract them.
 
Everything is good to go, except I did not tighten that crank pulley tight and I am getting vibration. It has a new coil pack a new up stream O2 sensor and new vac hoses, and a new PVC valve. The plugs are okay, I don't like Motor Craft plugs so I am putting back the dual electrode Bosch plugs. I also have a new thermostat that I have not put in yet. So I have to change those back brakes and deal with that sway bar. It also needs struts all the way around because the factory ones are done. Going to get them off of ebay with the springs already attached. Brand new Monroe's which are selling complete with springs for $116 bucks for 2. Because when I get a much newer car hopefully a Cadillac, I want to keep the Escort as a workhorse car.
 
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