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IGNITION TIMING

no crap lewis, i know what they do. that is why i'm glad i have chain driven timing on both trucks they get noisy before they go.

the balencers

Buy Dorman - OE Solutions Harmonic Balancer 594-033 at Advance Auto Parts____

blow that image up and you will see rubber there. that is why i asked. i have seen this before and the college that i went to. the very class i was in was engine performance and i had that checked as he said it sounded like a balencer but it could be timing issue as well. that is why you should check. you have to remove it anyway.
 
yes I have seen the older ones snap and the chains too. But these new belts fail when something makes them fail like a tensioner or the idler pulley or the harmonic balancer or something. Contact with oil and to high heat.
 
Lewis W said:
yes I have seen the older ones snap and the chains too. But these new belts fail when something makes them fail like a tensioner or the idler pulley or the harmonic balancer or something. Contact with oil and to high heat.
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of course oil eats them, seen that alot. take a stethoscope and listen to the noise or pry on the balencer and see how it moves. its got to come off anyway. good luck. i didnt mean to snap. i got bothered by a jewish friend of my cousin who blocked me for stating my mind on alan wests statement. which i agree with but i was stating the truth on turkey and he didnt like that. go figure. must be that i mention christ.:bigfrown
 
you can get the belt on and off the pulley and remover the cover with the balencer on it? still i would check it anyway. its right there and your almost there on taking it off.
 
i believe those are spring tensioned unlike the chain types. those are oil driven but can be realesed and held by putting pins in the hole.

ah i was mistaken on the jewish friend. he didnt block me,just deleted what we were talking about.
 
Yeah they come with a pin already in them, I have done this a few times before. I have also had to put one in a vice to put a pin in it before, after removing it from my Rodeo 3 times. But the new ones are already set. I own a harmonic balancer puller, not the crows feet one, but the 3 prong claws one. And if I did have to take it off which I don't. The only way I could pull it, is to take the engine half way out, because there is no room at all to use the harmonic balancer puller. So I am glad that I don't have to pull it off. That is one of the reasons that I hate a sideways engine.
 
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Jason I guess I do have to remove the damper, removing the tensioner is not going to give it enough slack.

2.0L Engine
SOHC ENGINE

1. Remove the drive belt and timing cover.
2. Raise the car and support it with safety stands.
3. Remove the right-hand splash shield and the crankshaft pulley.

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4. Align the timing marks as illustrated in the accompanying illustration.
5. Refer to the accompanying illustration and remove the timing belt as follows:

A. Loosen the timing belt tensioner bolt (1).
B. Use an 8mm Allen wrench, and turn the tensioner (2) counterclockwise 1⁄4 turn.
C. Insert a 1⁄8 inch drill bit in the hole (3) to lock the belt tensioner in place.
D. Remove the timing belt (4).

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E. Inspect the belt for damage and signs of oil leakage.

To install:

NOTE: Install the timing belt over the sprocket in a counterclockwise direction starting at the crankshaft. Keep the belt span between the crankshaft and camshaft tight when installing the belt over the camshaft.

6. Install the timing belt and remove the drill bit.
7. Tighten the tensioner bolt to 15–22 ft. lbs. (20–30 Nm).
8. Rotate the engine two complete revolutions and make sure the timing marks are aligned.
9. Install the timing belt cover and crankshaft pulley.
10. Install the right-hand splash shield and the drive belt.
11. Start the car and check for proper operation.

That's it.
 
if we lived close i would help you. but well theres a thousand miles between us. i have been working on my ranger just doing minor maintance.
 
As you can see this one is not hard at all, much much easier than that Rodeo. I am going to start taking it apart Sunday, I am also going to put in a water pump while I am in there. I am also changing the coil pack, i am getting poor spark even with good wires and plugs. It is the original coil pack and it is now cracking up.
 
well my "son" would love to assist with that. he enjoyed the time with me when i had him help me with my ranger when i put in the tranny cooler(secondary). i have some other work to do with my ranger, the front sway bars struts are gone, and i think the new water pump leaking.
 
there not that expensive, the ranger was used to pull a small trailer and i wanted it to be fully ready for the trailer thing again it had the the light connector from the factory in place and a ball was purchased.
 
i did it for the towing that i might do again. i put one meant for an rv on it. i set it up where that cooler cools the fluid first then the oe does it after that.
 
Well Jason I have all the parts, belt, tensioner, water pump, coil pack, thermostat, and I am replacing some vac hoses. And then I am going to buy a spring compressor kit and change all the struts, and change both back rotors and pads and I am done. Oh yeah I have to change both out tie rods, I put the inner and out tie rods on over a year ago. But I think that the broken struts helped them to have pre mature wear. I got to get this done, because think that we are going to have a very bad winter here up north.
 
Lewis W said:
Well Jason I have all the parts, belt, tensioner, water pump, coil pack, thermostat, and I am replacing some vac hoses. And then I am going to buy a spring compressor kit and change all the struts, and change both back rotors and pads and I am done. Oh yeah I have to change both out tie rods, I put the inner and out tie rods on over a year ago. But I think that the broken struts helped them to have pre mature wear. I got to get this done, because think that we are going to have a very bad winter here up north.
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thats gonna to take a while.
 
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