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IGNITION TIMING

You got that right. I am going to put the timing belt on in a couple of days because it is going to rain up until about Wed here. I am not going to put the struts on until about 2 weeks from now when I have the money. I am getting brand new Monroe struts off of ebay I can get the front ones for $ 116 that includes the shipping.
 
i took a week for me to do the ac system repair on my ranger. wrong parts where sent. the actual work was one day.,man that thing freezes it self even at idle. i showed nathan what the accumulator is and told him what it does and i told him to touch it and he was like yow that thing is so cold it burned. it was 90 plus outside.:D
 
Yeah I have to get my AC done in the spring I am buying the compressor from rockauto.com they have a bunch of them at the lowest prices that I have ever seen in my life. Now remember though that the hose fitting blew off and spewed freon all over the engine, and the compressor locked up on me, so I put a bypass drive belt on the engine.
 
:bigfrown i know that feeling. be sure to replace the condensor if you cant flush it and the accumulator and flush the hoses and also check the electric fans to see if they come on and how much airflow they cause(this was the whole reason my ranger needed that work the electric fan gave out. it was on but it didnt move much so the ac clutch started dragging and it nearly caught the truck on fire.
 
Jason I am going to install the compressor, but for everything else with the AC, I am going to let the pros do it.
 
you can buy a vac pump for nothing and install the accumulator and also the orifice tube and condensor. to evac the system simply let the freon leak out. if it has any left in it. if it doesnt replace the parts and use an oil charger after vaccum has been held for five minutes. charging ..??

i take it you dont know much about ac? how to evac and charge and flush.flushing is important as if you dont it will kill that new compressor.
 
No I don't I can charge one and find out wear a leak is using dye, but that is about it. I tell you what though, I am not going to go a summer without one. The accumulator is what blew, it the fitting right where the hose goes into it failed and blew freon all over my engine, and it still has some freon in it. I know I can do it if I want to.
 
ok. its easy in that you can learn it quickly, if you care too. just need the tools and the flush is easy i use mineral spirits and brake dry and air to remove the crud.

so the accumalator rusted through?
 
I don't see any rust, it blew right where the hose goes into it. Right now I just have the hose pushed right back down into it. But any good pressure will blow it right back off.
 
lewis its a garter spring that gave out. if its not the compression fitting that did that. check the o rings and replace them all. and i doubt any freon is left. what year is your car? i will post the pic of the accumalator and see what fitting types it has. usually on compression type and quick disconnect with the afformentioned garter springs.
 
kay. give me a few. this does have the orifice tube with accumalator? not to insult you some confuse the accumulator with the drier. they do kinda the same thing but work on difference sides of the expansion valve.
 
Got the pump out and installed the new one, the tensioner was very weak, and it did jump time when my drive belt snapped and wrapped around the crank shaft, that weak tensioner made it jump. I had to jack the engine up, and when I did the pump came right out. I did one thing wrong though I turned the tensioner bolt the wrong way and rounded it some. So I am leaving it on the old pump. I called the Ford dealer and they want $ 14. 25 for that bolt by special order, so I have no choice. Jacking that engine up made everything easy, I should have did that at first. That cam gear was pointing downward at 6:00 and the crank was like 11:00. So now I have the crank at TDC and at 12:00 and also the cam at 12:00, so I am good to go once I get the tension bolt.
 
reba said:
14. 25 For one bolt! No wonder they didnt need a bailout....
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Lewis W said:
Got the pump out and installed the new one, the tensioner was very weak, and it did jump time when my drive belt snapped and wrapped around the crank shaft, that weak tensioner made it jump. I had to jack the engine up, and when I did the pump came right out. I did one thing wrong though I turned the tensioner bolt the wrong way and rounded it some. So I am leaving it on the old pump. I called the Ford dealer and they want $ 14. 25 for that bolt by special order, so I have no choice. Jacking that engine up made everything easy, I should have did that at first. That cam gear was pointing downward at 6:00 and the crank was like 11:00. So now I have the crank at TDC and at 12:00 and also the cam at 12:00, so I am good to go once I get the tension bolt.
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hard ware stores do wonders. if it metric the rating will be number such as 8.8 or if not the lines and the triangles will tell you the grade and the length.i would use a vice grip and removed that or an extractor then took it to napa or hardwares store.
 
I was going to use my vice grips to get it out, and then I said I will just get a new bolt and have everything new in there. I went to Chapman Ford today, and with tax it came to, $ 15,42 yes that's right $ 15,42 for a screw. There is a lot of pressure put on that bolt, so now I pick up a fresh bolt Tuesday morning. Started to go to a salvage yard and get one, but I did not feel like going to South Philly and searching the yards. I'm with Reba Ford is filthy rich and they declined to take a bailout, because they did not need one. And GM out sells Ford, except for the Ford trucks.
 
Bit off topic i will not buy a Government Motors product...


Be sure and keep us updated on your project :yes

We have 2 ford pick ups no more hot rod cars Praise the Lord
 
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