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Taking the Camaro to the race track today!

stovebolts

stovebolts

Member
Woot woot!

This should be a lot of fun! I built this car mostly for the track, yet I've never had it at the track! I'm excited and nervous all at the same time!

When I built the engine I wanted something that would run in the low 12's or high 11's for the quarter mile so today will be either affirmation or disappointment.

My only two disclaimers are:
1. I am running a Holly 650 double pump when I need a 750. She's running lean past 6500 rpm.

2. I don't have a set of slicks.

If I were to add a three it would be this. I have no idea what my max advance is because I don't have a timing light that will let me read max advance. I've been told I should be running about 34 degrees max but heck, I don't even remember which springs or do-hickies I put in the distrubutor way back when.

As an FYI, I should be in the 500 hp club. It's a 355 small block with 10.5 to 1 pistons. Solid lift cam (540 lift) with 2.05 valves and 115 runners witha 64cc chamber topped off with a Wiend single plane intake and my weee little holly 650.

Tranny is a built turbo 350 with a Cohen rebuild, hardened shaft and valve body backed by a 3200 stall converter pusching back to a wanna be 372 detroit locker.

The suspension is held together by a custom set of front and rear springs from Eaton Springs and for additional traction I've got Competition Engineering Slide a Links in back and a set of QA1 adjustable shocks up front. Oh... if I can add a 4th item, I'm running old tires used shocks in the back.. oops, forgot about that little come back to item lol.

Wish me and my boy luck today and I hope I'm in the 12's!
 
On a related note... I'm thinking of taking the Roadster with a stick to the Tail of the Dragon tomorrow. My car is no race car like yours is, but mine LOVES curves!

It's 2 1/2 hours one way - I can go play for about 5 hours and be home in time for dinner if I leave by 7am....



Let us know how you did.
 
Thank everyone and thanks [MENTION=96812]Skillet[/MENTION].

I was extremely disappointed and almost afraid up post my time.

First pass was a 15:8... played with the timing and brought it down to a 15:4.

Started changing jets in the carb and got her down to a 14:8 but that's still pretty lame.

I knew the small carb was going to hurt my time but I didn't think it was going yo be that bad.

Good news is I'm going to do my homework and get the right sized carb and give this another go. I've got the foundation for a 12 second car if I can get the right carb and then its all about tuning.

It was fun watching the improve ments and we had a great time. I'll keep everyone posted as this quest to get into the 12s continues!
 
Thank everyone and thanks [MENTION=96812]Skillet[/MENTION].

I was extremely disappointed and almost afraid up post my time.

First pass was a 15:8... played with the timing and brought it down to a 15:4.

Started changing jets in the carb and got her down to a 14:8 but that's still pretty lame.

I knew the small carb was going to hurt my time but I didn't think it was going yo be that bad.

Good news is I'm going to do my homework and get the right sized carb and give this another go. I've got the foundation for a 12 second car if I can get the right carb and then its all about tuning.

It was fun watching the improve ments and we had a great time. I'll keep everyone posted as this quest to get into the 12s continues!
 
At least for you, a "tune" is done with screwdrivers - for cars like mine, it's done with a laptop and some expensive and touchy software.
 
Pizzaguy said:
At least for you, a "tune" is done with screwdrivers - for cars like mine, it's done with a laptop and some expensive and touchy software.
Click to expand...
Yeah that's true. But you don't have to tear your carburetor apart 10 times in the same day to figure out which jets work best or take your distributor apart and change the curve lol.
 
reba said:
No scratches ? :) :thumbsup cars are a great way for Dad and kids to get together....
Click to expand...
Well, my son had a great time talking with the daughter of another racer lol and I actually swerved on a pass when the chrome trim flew off the car in the other lane and came down in my lane! That was close!
 
Ok, so I'm doing some reading on advance curve. [MENTION=1825]Lewis W[/MENTION] and [MENTION=11841]jasoncran[/MENTION] maybe you two could chime in.

I'm running Dart 2 iron eagle heads with 2.05 valves and 215cc intake runners. I've got a Team G single intake manifold good to 7200 rpm. My cam has 520 lift intake and 540 exhaust. Duration is 288 and 290 something. It's a solid lifter cam that rates power from 2400 to 6800. Stall converter is a 2800 stall.

So where do i set my advance curve? I've been reading that I want to set my total timing at around 38 degrees and my idle should be around 12 degrees. That's the easy part for me because it's as simple as running the rpm's up to the point where the advance stops and then moving it to 38 degrees and lock in the distributor. Then take it back to idle and see where she lands and adjust with a grommet accordingly.

I'm running an MSD ignition and you basically have like 6 springs you can use in combination for the curve. What I need to know is at what rpm I need to have total advance locked in at. I mean, do I run 38 degrees at 3,000 rpm, 5,000 rpm? I have no idea.

Thoughts?
 
StoveBolts said:
Ok, so I'm doing some reading on advance curve. [MENTION=1825]Lewis W[/MENTION] and [MENTION=11841]jasoncran[/MENTION] maybe you two could chime in.

I'm running Dart 2 iron eagle heads with 2.05 valves and 215cc intake runners. I've got a Team G single intake manifold good to 7200 rpm. My cam has 520 lift intake and 540 exhaust. Duration is 288 and 290 something. It's a solid lifter cam that rates power from 2400 to 6800. Stall converter is a 2800 stall.

So where do i set my advance curve? I've been reading that I want to set my total timing at around 38 degrees and my idle should be around 12 degrees. That's the easy part for me because it's as simple as running the rpm's up to the point where the advance stops and then moving it to 38 degrees and lock in the distributor. Then take it back to idle and see where she lands and adjust with a grommet accordingly.

I'm running an MSD ignition and you basically have like 6 springs you can use in combination for the curve. What I need to know is at what rpm I need to have total advance locked in at. I mean, do I run 38 degrees at 3,000 rpm, 5,000 rpm? I have no idea.

Thoughts?
Click to expand...
tuning engines was never my forte. I assumed that one sets advance at idle, it has to be. that is what most cars do and when the ecm sees the need to advance it will. I believe the old way does that too
 
StoveBolts said:
Ok, so I'm doing some reading on advance curve. [MENTION=1825]Lewis W[/MENTION] and [MENTION=11841]jasoncran[/MENTION] maybe you two could chime in.

I'm running Dart 2 iron eagle heads with 2.05 valves and 215cc intake runners. I've got a Team G single intake manifold good to 7200 rpm. My cam has 520 lift intake and 540 exhaust. Duration is 288 and 290 something. It's a solid lifter cam that rates power from 2400 to 6800. Stall converter is a 2800 stall.

So where do i set my advance curve? I've been reading that I want to set my total timing at around 38 degrees and my idle should be around 12 degrees. That's the easy part for me because it's as simple as running the rpm's up to the point where the advance stops and then moving it to 38 degrees and lock in the distributor. Then take it back to idle and see where she lands and adjust with a grommet accordingly.

I'm running an MSD ignition and you basically have like 6 springs you can use in combination for the curve. What I need to know is at what rpm I need to have total advance locked in at. I mean, do I run 38 degrees at 3,000 rpm, 5,000 rpm? I have no idea.

Thoughts?
Click to expand...
I'd consult the cam manufacturer.

I did find this pdf that might help you, though.

http://www.firstfives.org/faq/timing/timing_for_modified_engines.PDF

Looks like you should have full advance by 3500 rpm as a general rule.
 
Jethro Bodine said:
I'd consult the cam manufacturer.

I did find this pdf that might help you, though.

http://www.firstfives.org/faq/timing...ed_engines.PDF

Looks like you should have full advance by 3500 rpm as a general rule.
Click to expand...

I have the cam specs and the distributor specs along with all the springs and stops for the distributor. What I didn't have was which combination to start with.

The pdf file you posted is perfect! It's exactly what I was looking for!

My lift is 520 and 540, but that's not the factor for the curve... according to the pdf, duration is. My duration is 290, so that tells me my advance at idle (950 rpm) needs to be about 14 degrees.

I have a set of closed chamber heads, so I'll want total advance to be between 38 - 40 degrees according to the pdf. That tells me I need between 24 and 26 mechanical advance. My distributor gives me a stopper for 25 and 28 degrees mechanical advance. I'm thinking I'll play with both but the 25 degrees seems best on paper. If I use the 25 degree stopper and I need 40 total advance, then that means my advance at idle will be 15 degrees. That's not too far off from the 14 they wanted. If I need 38 degrees, then that sets me back to 13 degrees at idle. Still not too bad.

The distributor has 6 different curve settings depending on the springs you use.
Silver and Blue spring gives me total advance about 3200 rpm while 2 blue springs gives me total advance about 3800.

I think this gives me a good base to start with!

@Lewis,
Yes! I'm getting a new 750 core from Holly for just over 150 bucks for my birthday in a few weeks. I'll use my existing metering plates and bowels. Much cheaper than a new carb!

Ohhh, and I'm going to scan all the pawn shops this weekend for a good trouble light that will read up to 40 degrees advance!
 
jasoncran said:
tuning engines was never my forte. I assumed that one sets advance at idle, it has to be. that is what most cars do and when the ecm sees the need to advance it will. I believe the old way does that too
Click to expand...

I don't have an ecm lol! Old school yung un!
 
stovebolts, If ya asked me about three years ago I could have sent my 500 dollar digital timing light. it had both tach and timing.
 
StoveBolts said:
Jethro Bodine said:
I'd consult the cam manufacturer.

I did find this pdf that might help you, though.

http://www.firstfives.org/faq/timing...ed_engines.PDF

Looks like you should have full advance by 3500 rpm as a general rule.
Click to expand...

I have the cam specs and the distributor specs along with all the springs and stops for the distributor. What I didn't have was which combination to start with.

The pdf file you posted is perfect! It's exactly what I was looking for!

My lift is 520 and 540, but that's not the factor for the curve... according to the pdf, duration is. My duration is 290, so that tells me my advance at idle (950 rpm) needs to be about 14 degrees.

I have a set of closed chamber heads, so I'll want total advance to be between 38 - 40 degrees according to the pdf. That tells me I need between 24 and 26 mechanical advance. My distributor gives me a stopper for 25 and 28 degrees mechanical advance. I'm thinking I'll play with both but the 25 degrees seems best on paper. If I use the 25 degree stopper and I need 40 total advance, then that means my advance at idle will be 15 degrees. That's not too far off from the 14 they wanted. If I need 38 degrees, then that sets me back to 13 degrees at idle. Still not too bad.

The distributor has 6 different curve settings depending on the springs you use.
Silver and Blue spring gives me total advance about 3200 rpm while 2 blue springs gives me total advance about 3800.

I think this gives me a good base to start with!
Click to expand...
The internet saves the day again. Glad the PDF helped.

Sounds like you got it nailed. Good luck at the track!
 
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